Weaving Metal

Classic and ancient textile techniques and the malleable richness of pure gold and platinum are a natural marriage of form and function. These elements drive my passion to create a whole new category of wearable art. The supple and sensual movement permitted by these metals lend themselves to the physical gymnastics wire must perform while being woven. By translating these textile techniques to the most precious of metals, I have attempted to blur the boundaries of craft, art and ethnicity.

The twining technique of basket weaving is composed of a system of spokes (warps) assembled in parallel sequence evenly spaced. For my Labyrinth Cuff and Torque, I use 18k white gold or PT5HTA (heat treatable platinum 950) as the base structure taking advantage of their springy natures that provide the strength and stamina to hold its shape. For the lacing material (wefts) that are woven over the structure, I use 24K or platinum .999 'threads'. This wire is a continuous double element as it moves in and out of the warp structure. Twining refers to the use of a pair of wefts which are crossed before twisting around each warp element to produce a locked horizontal structure of tightly packed stitches. The product is remarkably strong despite its delicate appearance.

The magic metals... Heat treatable alloys

Traditionally, 24 karat gold has been considered too soft to manufacture jewelry that will have the necessary strength and hardness to withstand everyday wear. The introduction of 24K microalloys that are .9985 fineness, allow the manufacturing of pure gold jewelry that can wear as well as 18k but have the rich color of 24k. Two of the unique advantages of this microalloyed gold are that it has greatly improved hardness and strength when properly carried through the manufacturing process of age hardening and cold working. This enables the production of jewelry that can carry a 24K hallmark in many countries of the world and yet retain its finish and structure in everyday use.

PT5HTA-Finally, a heat treatable alloy of platinum that supplies the spring properties with a 95% platinum content, possessing all the qualities needed to provide the memory to hold the shape of the form over centuries of wear. Its ability to transform from ductile to hardened through a precision heat treatment can open design doors technically impossible in the near past.

But the most incredible fact is that both of these new metal alloys are nearly pure. The gold is dripping with the rich, warm color that only 24K has. Combine this with cool, white, pure platinum and the product are objects that are powerful and rare.